ITEHPEC Technical Workshop - BLOCK 2: “Innovations in Cosmetics”

ITEHPEC Technical Workshop - BLOCK 2: “Innovations in Cosmetics”

21 Sep 2017, 08:30 - 13:00

Local do Workshop ITEHPEC

Portuguese (Brazil)

Moderator: Sérgio GonçalvesChemyunion International Marketing and Business Director and ITEHPEC Board Member


08:30 - 09:00     Registration

09:00 - 09:15     Opening
Carlos Praes, AVON R&D Manager and President of the ITEHPEC Science & Technology Board

09:15 - 10:05     New approaches to improve predictive human safety testing: A roadmap for how to overcome the acknowledged scientific gaps for the full replacement of toxicity testing using animals
Nathalie Alepée, L'Oréal Research Associate 

Toxicological testing in the current regulatory environment is steeped in a history of using animals to answer questions about the safety of products to which humans are exposed. That history forms the basis for the testing strategies of premarket product development and evaluation. Alternative toxicological methods for hazard evaluation and risk assessment have now been adopted and are being viewed as a means to address those issues in a manner that preserves the goal of ensuring human safety. Alternative approaches as one-by-one replacements of animal tests have advanced over the last two decades, and formal validation has delivered the proof-of-principle that they do not lower safety standards. To facilitate this transition, regulatory agencies, industries and academics have worked together toward improved approaches. Assurance that the methods are reliable and the results comparable with, or better than, those derived from the current classical methods was crucial. That confidence is a function of the scientific validation and resultant acceptance of any given method. In Europe, several methodologies have already been implemented and internationally accepted, such as tests of irritation, corrosion, and sensitization as well as in vitro mathematical models together with the use of in silico tools.

Currently validated tests address mainly topical and acute toxicities. Case studies are presented to illustrate applicability, reliability and relevance of methods as well as to demonstrate how various Integrated Approaches to Testing and Assessment can be engaged to support meaningful risk assessments. Only relatively recently a paradigm shift, although gradually, has been observed for repeated toxicities. The advances in technologies (e.g. human-on-chip) and the gain of toxicological knowledge pathways also appear to make novel approaches feasible for systemic toxicities in a not-so-distant future. Therefore, few examples of the range of state-of-the-art non-animal research methods available and their demonstrated benefits are investigated.

10:05 - 10:55     Innovation and Technology in Perfumery Ingredients
Iguatemi Costa, Senior Scientific Manager of NATURA

Sustainability, safety and quality: Lifecycle assessment, value chains and fair trade; Innovation in Natural; Green Chemistry and Biotechnology; Active ingredients - functional perfumery. 

10:55 - 11:15     Coffee Break

11:15 - 11:50     Sun protection beyond ultraviolet
Prof. Dr. Maurício S. Baptista, University of São Paulo - USP 

Sunscreens protect from excessive exposure to UVA/B (280-400 nm), but not from exposure to visible light (400-700 nm). We have shown that natural chromophores, like melanin and lipofuscin, effectively absorb visible light, form excited states that oxidize nitrogenated bases, and allow premutagenic DNA lesions to build up. Hence, the use of today’s available sunscreens will not be able to protect our skin effectively from sun exposure. Among the possible solutions for protecting against visible sun light, we developed a concept based on membrane protection and on silica nanoparticles modified by fine melanin film. 

11:50 - 12:25     Photocosmetics: A new concept in cosmetic products applied to skincare
Prof. Dr. Priscila Menezes Campos, University of São Paulo - USP (São Carlos Campus)

The benefits of treatment carried out with either cosmetic products or the application of light in the visible infrared region, using lasers and/or LEDs, are already well-established. Nonetheless, cosmetic technologies that boost the interaction of light with the skin are novelties currently offered by the cosmetic market. Photoactivated cosmetics, or photocosmetics, are products that contain active ingredients having chromophoric groups with absorption bands in the region of the electromagnetic spectrum from visible to near infrared, thereby optimizing light absorption by the skin, and leading to several skin treatment benefits. Photocosmetics have a threefold functionality:

1) they act as a guide light that increases the absorption and retention of light in the different skin layers, thus creating photostimulus mechanisms in mitochondria (photobiomodulation theory)
2) they act to optimize photochemical reactions of energy transfer to biomolecules and oxygen, creating proinflammatory mechanisms important for tissue repair (aesthetic photodynamic therapy or photoactivated cosmetic therapy; and, lastly
3) they act to treat the skin, considering that photoactive ingredients may provide antioxidating action that complements the skincare effect.

This new generation of cosmetic product, currently called a photocosmetic, should be applied together with laser or LED technologies, and may be applied in aesthetic centers with professional equipment or at home with portable homecare devices. The only difference lies in adequately applying the light dosimetry, which should be parametrized for weekly and/or monthly and/or daily homecare treatments.

12:25 - 13:00     Three-dimensional study on the chemical and microbial diversity of human skin
Prof. Dr. Carla Porto, State University of Maringá

Human skin is the largest organ of the human body, containing over 1 million microorganisms, primarily bacteria, which inhabit each square centimeter of our skin. From a molecular point of view, the skin surface is not only composed of human cells and skin microbiota, but is also transformed by the outside environment and our daily habits.

This conference will discuss the preparation of the first topographic map of the human skin surface, created with an inventory of molecules and the bacterial sequencing of over 400 distinct skin sites. These topographical maps revealed that molecular distribution is related to skin microbiota composition in specific regions, and also put into evidence certain biomarkers for immunological states in specific regions of the body. Analysis of these maps singled out the molecular inter-relationship between human beings and their microbiota and environment, including daily routines, such as diet and use of CT&F products. As such, these maps represent a promising tool able to uncover chemical and microbial patterns and their functions in balancing and modulating skin ecosystems, and have a great potential for application in the field of cosmetics and dermatology.

13:00     Closing



  • Sérgio Gonçalves


    Diretor de Marketing e Negócios Internacionais


    Diretor de Marketing e Negócios Internacionais da Chemyunion, atuou na Croda como gerente de MKT de PERSONAL CARE – para América Latina; tendo sido...

  • Carlos Praes


    R&D Sr. Manager / Presidente

    AVON / Conselho Científico-Tecnológico do ITEHPEC

    Gerente Sênior de Pesquisa e Desenvolvimento da Avon. Possui experiência de 30 anos nas áreas de P&D de Produtos, Qualidade e Novas Tecnologias e...

  • Dr. Nathalie Alépée


    Research Associate

    L’Oréal Research & Innovation, France

    Dr. Nathalie Alépée has twenty-year experience in leadership of investigative toxicology with proof of accountability for relationship of European...

  • Iguatemi Costa


    Gerente Científico Sênior


    Iguatemi atua na função de Gerente Científico Sênior de ingredientes naturais e sustentáveis na Natura Inovação. Nesta posição, é responsável por...

  • Prof. Maurício S. Baptista




    Professor titular de Bioquímica na Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Ele obteve o título de Farmacêutico e Bioquímico e Mestre em Bioquímica pela USP...

  • Prof. Dra. Priscila Fernanda Menezes Campos



    USP-São Carlos

    Farmacêutica Bioquímica pela Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas da Universidade Federal de Alfenas - UNIFAL.  Pós Doutor - IFSC/USP, Doutor em...

  • Prof. Dra. Carla Porto



    Universidade Estadual de Maringá

    Química Industrial graduada pela UFSM, Mestre em Produtos Naturais pela mesma instituição e Doutora em Ciências pela Unicamp, onde desenvolveu sua...


We use cookies to operate this website and to improve its usability. Full details of what cookies are, why we use them and how you can manage them can be found by reading our Privacy & Cookies page. Please note that by using this site you are consenting to the use of cookies.